Kyoto: Some updated recommendations
Japan is surfing a wave of popularity as a vacation destination. Friends often ask me for recommendations, and I’m happy to supply them. I posted a detailed list last year (“So You’re Going to Kyoto?”), so start there. Here’s a quick update with some new suggestions based on our most recent (December 2025) visit.
Ponto-cho
Ponto-cho, the narrow street of restaurants and bars squeezed against the west bank of the Kamo River, can be intimidating. In the past I have avoided it, seeing it as over-run by tourists. I also worried about getting cornered in a restaurant that was over-priced or too fancy for my comfort.
On this trip, Ken and I decided to set aside those concerns and give it a shot. We visited two evenings in a row, just as the sun was going down. It was a bit before peak party time, so we avoided the rush. We were successful—below are two nice places that didn’t break the bank.
Pro-tip: the best time to visit Ponto-cho is in summertime, when restaurants open their back patios for al fresco riverfront dining. In December, those decks are closed off. We’ll have to come back again in summertime, what a shame!
Pontako Sakura （ぽんたこ佐蔵）
We were attracted by the little takeout window facing the street where the chef flipped golf-ball-sized takoyaki (bbq octopus in an eggy crepe batter). Leaving our shoes in the entry, we sat at a small bar with room for about ten people. We sat on tatami but there was space below the bar for our legs, so it was quite comfortable. We both had a drink and snack (I had yakisoba noodles) while watching the chef work in his tiny, storefront kitchen little larger than a roomy telephone booth. (https://www.palplan.net/pontako/photo/)
Idzumoya（先斗町いづもや）
As you enter Ponto-cho from Shijo Ohashi bridge, turn into the first place on your right and go up the stairs to the second floor. Here is a cute restaurant with good shabu-shabu, sukiyaki, and unagi (eel). The food service was quick, friendly, and relaxed. The view of the bridge was spectacular.
As an aside, we were surprised when our eel came covered with a thin layer of egg, which we’d never seen before. It was quite tasty though, and more filling than a regular unagi set meal. https://www.idumoya.co.jp
Saihōji, the “Moss Temple”
This Zen temple established in the 1300s has easily one of the most beautiful gardens I’ve ever seen. It is on the western edge of Kyoto city, not far from the Katsura Villa. Visitors are requested to speak only in whispers—a wonderfully meditative experience. Before tip-toeing through the moss-covered gardens, sit in the main hall and copy out a sutra using a brush pen. Out of concern for the fragile gardens, advance reservations are required, and children under thirteen are not allowed. https://saihoji-kokedera.com/en/
Two views of the moss gardens at Saihōji
Bakery Cafe なごみ
On the way to Saihōji Temple, a short walk from Kami Katsura train station, is an adorable bakery that serves delicious pastries and coffee. Bakery Cafe Nagomi is a little mom-and-pop type coffee shop putting out piping hot, fresh-baked delights. It even offers bread baking classes. https://pansyokuninss.com/
Bonus Tip: With all the foreign travelers in Japan these days, we’ve noticed long lines of people standing out in front of restaurants and speciality stores. I suspect some of these shops were picked up by Instagram or TikTok influencers, and now everyone absolutely HAS to go there. Here’s my advice, for what it’s worth. Unless you love standing in lines, don’t bother. There are more wonderful places to go than there are hours in your lifetime. However good that restaurant’s coffee latte or ice cream or chicken skewers are, I bet two doors down is another place that can do just as well and would love to have your business.
